Embroidery

The art of embroidery is largely based upon the indigenous Kangra and Chamba schools of paintings. The stitches are so closeby, spaced that no gaps are visible. The word 'Rumal' may conjure up visions of a handkerchief to the layman but to the Chamba people, it is a form of adornment. Men drape these colourful embroidered rumals over their shoul- ders and the women use them as flowing veils. A Chamba rumal is such priceless possession, that a bride's trousseau would be incomplete without it. Today, Chamba rumal are also used as wall-hangings. door and fire screens, cushion covers while the designs have been adopted for table-cloth and bed-spreads.

The embroidery of the Pradesh can be divided under two major heads that rumal embroidery and leather embroidery. The rumal literally means a handkerchief. It is not used as a handkerchief in the western sense of the world. It is presented during Chamba and Suni weddings and forms an important part of the bride's trousseau. Generally square in shape, the rumal may also be rectangular, ranging from 2 to 6 feet in length. It is also known as "Kashida". The Chamba embroidery is same on both sides and the ground is usually cream or white. The embroidery silks are in vivid and striking contrast and the embroidery is done on plain fine cotton or silk fabrics. The whole work is carried out in the running stitch, with no gaps stitches. The space is adoritly filled in, so that the figures apear on both side of the rumal and the effect is almost the same as in the ancient frescoes on the wall of the princely palaces in Himachal Pradesh. It is almost as if the whole of the picture has been transplanted from the wall to the cloth and the resemblance between the rumal and frescoe becomes unmistakable. Suni embroidery is only one side and chiefly comprises of geometrical patterns.

The art of leather embroidery in Himachal Pradesh, probably originated with the peasant class which has contributed the best specimens. It flourished under the patronage of the princes, rulers and the courtiers. Like other applied arts, embroidery reflects the cultural heritage of people.

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