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The popular image of Kerala is of lush coastal region whose swaying palm trees, lazy backwaters and golden sands bake in the sultry climate of a tropical paradise. This is an accurate enough image in many respects but one which ignores another- and quiet different-Keralan: the Kerala of the hills and High Ranges; the Keralan that possesses some of India's most beautifyl scenery and has a cool, bracing climate far removed from the coast's humidity. This Keralan starts at Ponmudi, a mere 60 kilometers (38 miles) from Trivandrum.
Ponmudi is a tiny hill station, set at a altitude of 1,066 meters (3,218 feet) amongst forest- covered hills. The two-hour drive from Trivandrum takes you along a winding road, past small villages, through the Golden Valley and up into another world. As you climb, the hairpin bends provide ever-changing aspects of the hills, every curve in the road revealing an even more breathtaking view. Either you are gifted with the sight of a lovely green valley-almost certainly mist-filled if you are early- or a glimpse of pristine natural beauty through dark teak trees or, in equally impressive contrast you take a closer look at the region's abundant flora, particularly the wild loveliness of orchids growing in casual abandon. Ponmudi is neat and contained in its
smallness- perfect for a short surrounding hills. Set like a tiny jewel in a magical greenness, it is only one among a handful of such hill stations in the High Ranges.
Munnar, 137 kilometers (85 miles) eat of Cochin, is the largest of the hill station and, at 1,524 meters (5,000 feet), Kerala's highest town. Munnar is different, still preserving a way of life that has almost vanished elsewhere, the life of the tea planter. Their spacious sprawling bungalows conform to every one's preconceptions of a planter's home.
Central to the planter's existence is the club life : billiard tables, a library and, of course, a Men only bar.
Life in Munnar revolves around tea: much of India's tea is grown on the surrounding hills and the air is permeated with its aroma. Visitors are soon aware of the impact this delicate leaf has had on the region. Where a century or so ago there was nothing but forested hills, there are now tea estates.
The world of tea estates seems to blend well with the magnificence of nature, for although it is easy to recognize the impact of tea on the High ranges, much of the region's natural beauty remains untouched. A short drive to Kundale, one of the largest estates, takes you through
some of the finest local scenery. The Eravikulam National Park, hundreds of sure-footed Nilgiri thar roam contentedly, grazing on rolling hills whose greenness stretches away accross the valleys to merge in to the misty blues of the distance. The Rajamalai section of the park is only 17 Kilometers (11 miles) from Munnar. South India's highest peak, Anaimudi (2,695 meters, or 8,840 feet) is within the park.
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