Food is basic, but sufficient. All the guest houses have their own restaurants serving the usual line-up, and there are plenty of cheap bhojanalaya west of Durbar Square and around the bus park. If nothing else, you can always load up on thick, sweet yoghurt, available by the clay pot or glass from local stalls at a fraction of the price charged in tourist restaurants.

Bhaktapur Gate Restaurant,

adjacent to Golden Gate Guest House. Not much atmosphere, but it serves palatable kothe and other pasta dishes.

Cafe de Peacock,

in a former math overlooking Dattatraya Square. You can't beat the surroundings, but it's overpriced for what amounts to fairly primitive tourist grub.

Cafe Nyatapola,

in a former temple in the middle of Taumadhi Tol. Another place with a great location and middling food.

Durbar Square Restaurant,

west end of Durbar Square. Popular with daytrippers and tour groups and consequently overpriced, but the food (especially the Indian) is competent.

Marco Polo Restaurant,

overlooking Taumadhi Tol. Enjoy the view over a cup of tea or a bowl of curd -but steer well clear of the food.

Nyatapola Restaurant,

just north of the Nyatapola. Serviceable Western, Nepali, Indian and Tibetan food. Rooftop seating with an up-close view of the Nyatapola.

Rooftop cafe,

in Shiva Guest House overlooking Durbar Square. Unexciting tourist menu. It isn't actually on the roof, although it commands a fine vantage of the square.