Eatouts In Kathmandu ***

Scores of restaurants and cafes line the lanes of Kathmandu's tourist quarters, and more spring up after each monsoon. Tibetan, Chinese and Indian food have long been taken for granted in Kathmandu, European specialities predominate these days, American-style pies and cakes, though overrated, are ever-popular and even Japanese, Thai and Mexican dishes are available.

Nepali and Newari

The Nepali and Newari places listed below are geared for tourists and tend to be on the expensive side, but worth it.

Bhanchha Ghar, Kamaladi, east of the Clocktower. Nepali nouvelle cuisine, featuring such delicacies as wild boar, wild mushroom curry and buckwheat chapatis -truly wonderful. Expensive.

Las Kus, in the Kathmandu Guest House, Thamel North. Does a set meal that provides a good introduction to Newari cuisine. Moderate.

Naachgbar, in the Hotel Yak & Yeti off Durbar Marg . Top-flight Nepali, Indian and Western cooking; set dinner in a palatial setting with nightly culture shows in season. Expensive.

Nepalese Kitchen, Chhetrapati. A serviceable budget version of the others listed here, demonstrating that there's more to Nepali cuisine than daal bhaat. Outdoor seating, a fire-place and live music some evenings. Inexpensive to moderate.

Thamel House, Thamel Northeast. A clone of Bhanchha Ghar, offering marginally cheaper vegetarian and non-vegetariant menus. Expensive.

Tibetan and Chinese

Tibetan restaurants offer some of the cheapest tourist food in Kathmandu, cheaper still are the many momo kitchens throughout the old city, notably around Mahabaudha.

Da Hua, Bhagwan Bahal. Good aII-round Chinese. Inexpensive to moderate.

Mountain City, in the Hotel Malla on Lekhnath Marg Delicious Chinese food; Szechuan a speciality. Moderate.

Nanglo, Ganga Path (east of Durbar Square). Reliable Chinese food in a well-appointed setting. Inexpensive to moderate.

New Mandarin, Freak Street. Cramped but cosy, and good for both Chinese and Tibetan dishes. Cheap.

Omei, Jyatha Thamel. Convincing Beijing, Cantonese and Szechuan cuisine on white linen. Moderate.

Indian

Perhaps the best measure of the Indian population in Kathmandu is the number of Indian restaurants they're popping up everywhere. The more expensive ones serve food every bit as good as you'll find in India, and even the cheapies (mostly around New Road) do some fine pure vegetarian dishes.

Gbar-e-Kebab, Durbar Marg. Superlative north Indian food, ghazal, strange nightclub interior. Expensive.

Moti MahaI, Durbar Marg. Tandoori food rivalling that of Ghar-e-Kebab, though the decor isn't as swanky. Moderate.

New Kebab Corner, Jyatha, in the Hotel Gautam just off Kantipath. Expats swear by this place. Moderate.

Shere Punjab, off New Road. Basic in-and-out Punjabi canteen. Cheap.

Tripti, off New Road. lively little pure vegetarian place serving south Indian fare. Cheap.



European

G's Terrace, Thamel North. High-cholesterol Bavarian specialities. Moderate.

la Cimbali, Kwa Bahal, Thamel. A small cafe with a nice atmosphere and a good range of Italian fare. Inexpensive.

la Dolce Vita, Thamel. Kathmandu's most upscale Italian restaurant. Inexpensive to moderate.

Micky Pizza Hut, Thamel Northwest. Small dining room, good atmosphere and really rather good thin-crust pizza. Inexpensive.

Simply Shutters, Thamel South. Classy bistro with a menu du jour, featuring French and other Continental specialities. Good place for a romantic meal. Expensive.



Japanese and Thai

Fuji, Kantipath, Good food, beautiful decor. Expensive.

Him Thai, Lazimpath. The food won't astound anyone who's just flown in from Bangkok, but it's tasty and reasonably authentic. Moderate.

Koto, Durbar Marg. Probably the best value for money on the Japanese front. Moderate.

Kushi Fuji, Durbar Marg. More authentic, but more expensive.



Vegetarian

There are only a few all-vegetarian tourist restaurants worthy of recommendation, but every restaurant serves at least a few meatless dishes; even Tibetan places will usually do vegetable momo.

Nirmala, Thamel Northwest. Tasty meals from a short but varied menu. Inexpensive.

Paradise, Freak Street Italian, Mexican. Indian and cheesy dishes, Cheap.

Skala, Chhetrapati ThameL Nice garden seating, reasonably creative savoury pies, roulades, soups and salads. Inexpensive.

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